Seattle Sun Newspaper - Vol. 8, Issue 5, May 2004
Copyright 2004 Seattle Sun. Please feel free to use the article below in your research. Be sure to cite the Seattle Sun as your source.
AROUND THE HOME:
Don't overlook prep and priming when painting
By MATT MAURY
After mid-April's warm weather, many of us are starting to think about painting our homes' exteriors this summer.
Whether doing it yourself or having it professionally done, there are three steps to a successful project prep work, priming and painting.
The first two are often overlooked in favor of getting the job finished quickly. And, while a quick job will look good initially in fact, you often can't tell it from a poor job the lack of proper prep work and priming will substantially shorten the time before repainting is necessary.
The air and rain carry specs of dirt that end up attached to the outside of a home. Without cleaning this dirt off the surface, new paint will not adhere to the siding, fascia and soffits properly.
That is why power washing, scrubbing, sanding and brushing are necessary. The power washing should be done with the nozzle at a 30-degree to 45-degree angle to the surface of the house so as not to damage the siding.
After the washing, there may be areas where the existing paint is flaking away from the house. This paint needs to be scraped off, with the area around sanded smooth.
Any areas that show mold or mildew should be wiped clean with a solution of water containing 10 percent bleach.
After prepping the job, don't overlook the primer. It improves both the look and longevity of the finished project.
Two reasons for using primer on bare wood: 1. to keep oils and tannins in some woods from bleeding through to the finished surface; 2. to keep the paint from being absorbed into the wood, leaving a different appearance than the surrounding area.
All primers are not the same. Some are designed for wood; some, for metal; some, for masonry; some, for drywall. And just as primers are made to cover specific surfaces, they are also formulated to work best with specific paint.
If you are planning to use Sherwin-Williams paint, use that brand of primer; when using Glidden paint, use Glidden primer, etc. Your paint store professional can guide you to the right primer for your job.
Rather than risking a poor job by using one primer for everything, it's better to spend a few dollars more to buy different primers for the bare wood on the siding and for the metal gutters and downspouts.
Here are some guidelines of the type of primer to be used on various surfaces:
Wood Siding
An exterior grade latex primer is good for most wood surfaces. Where there is the risk of knots, pitch or wood stains bleeding through, an oil or shellac-based primer can block it.
Aluminum gutters and other nonferrous metals (won't rust)
Acrylic latex exterior primer is best.
Ferrous metals (will rust)
Should be primed with an oil-based primer that is labeled as a rust-inhibiting primer.
Masonry
A uniquely formulated sealer and primer should be used to resist problems from efflorescence and alkaline in the masonry.
Tile
Either an acrylic latex or shellac-based primer will be a good base for painting.
PVC pipes
Either an acrylic latex or a shellac-based primer will be a good base for painting.
Particleboard and other composite wood products
An oil or shellac-based primer will act to prevent water penetration, which can cause swelling.
Drywall
Seal new drywall with a good PVA latex primer to assure a uniform appearance of the paint.
While correct prep work and priming are key to a successful paint job, it is equally important for these items to be spelled out in written estimates and contracts with professional painters.