By RIKI MAFUNE

Rob Paulson, owner of the Wedgwood Ale House and Cafe, is a friendly man with a direct gaze, an easy laugh, and a firm handshake.

Also known as "The Grappler" for his alleged back-yard wrestling exploits, he takes pride in the fact that he's a fourth generation Seattleite. Great grandpa Paulson settled in Seattle in 1870, and was co-owner of the Hall and Paulson Furniture Manufacturing Co. until it burned down in the famous Seattle Fire of 1889.

The Annals of Seattle History state that Grandpa Paulson never recovered the business after the fire "as his health had been shattered by years of toil and hardship."

Asked if Paulson himself is carrying on this family tradition, he laughs and assures me that he has learned from those before him not to suffer such a fate.

A self described corporate dropout, Paulson was the Director of Marketing for a trucking company for 10 years and also in oil exploration in the Western U.S. before deciding to "step down" and take a stab at something completely different.

Formerly the Wedgwood Draft House, Paulson purchased the establishment located at 8515 35th Ave. NE from a dissolving partnership in 1993.

Since then, the business has grown steadily, and Paulson says the last few months "have been a boomtown." He attributes this success to the following: "In the small world of true beer connoisseurs, we're considered one of the great places because of the number of taps we have (18) and the radical way we rotate them."

He also adds: "We draw on an excellent neighborhood," and "(I'm) blessed with an overqualified," dedicated, and talented staff.

Bob Hathaway, manager, is another corporate drop-out and former Hyatt sous-chef.

Mark Berlin, the kitchen manager, is described by Paulson as a "strapping bear of a man who gets it done." He's nicknamed the Illustrated Chef in honor of his numerous tattoos.

Heather Hale, who managed a bakery and cafe in Juneau, Alaska, for four years, creates soups, sauces, deserts, waits tables, and is the lead breakfast cook for the Ale House's popular weekend breakfast service. "She goes beyond a good soup cook," says Paulson, "she's gifted."

Then there's Pat Sterling, night bartender and Wedgwood resident; Tommy Friedlander, cook (yes, he is a jeweler, but different family); Josh Bosse, an upbeat former Julia's guy; and Derek Arntz, who spent four years as the manager of an Italian bakery and will soon be taking leave to New Zealand to commune with the Maoris.

In the early days of ownership, Paulson worked 60 to 70 hours a week. But now, a 30 hour week leaves time for Paulson pursue personal interests such as backpacking and socializing with old friends and to have the flexibility to cover for his staff when they need time off for personal or professional endeavors.

Paulson does it all at the Ale House, from scrubbing the corners to doing the dishes. He's learned from experience that having "the knack or willingness to work alongside (your) people" creates a positive work environment that nurtures staff unity and loyalty.

On any given day, the place will be full of people and Paulson and his staff will know most of them by name. And, if you're truly lucky, Paulson, a bass trombonist, will pull his horn down off the wall and honor your birthday celebration with "the raspiest" version of "How Dry I Am" and "Happy Birthday."

As for the future of the Wedgwood Ale House, Paulson plans a kitchen remodel to keep up with the growing breakfast business. Also, in 1999 he plans to rebuild a unique feature of the Ale House, the horseshoe bar.

And don't forget, all you trivia buffs, continued by popular demand is the weekly Trivia Contest at 10 p.m. every Sunday night. Toy prizes will be awarded to the most trivially gifted. On Sunday, you say?! So late?!

Paulson just sits back and says through a smile: "'Tis a glorious thing to be a full house at 10 o'clock on a Sunday night."

Oh, and one final note - try the tartar sauce. As Paulson says, "It's the best 25 cents you'll ever spend."

Riki Mafune is a freelance writer who resides in Maple Leaf.